How to Get a Military Quality Shine on Leather
Tried and True Tricks to Polish Boots or Shoes
Dec 31, 2008
First, determine if the type of leather is conducive to a high gloss shine. Rough-side out leathers or suede will not accept polish and attempting to apply wax may damage the finish. Most synthetics also require different treatments and materials. Once it has been confirmed that the leather footwear can be polished, the process can be generally be completed within a few hours.
Materials Needed for the Shining Process
- Saddle Soap (to strip and soften)
- Applicator Brush
- Buffing Brush
- Wax Shoe Polish
- Soft, lint-free towel
- Edge dressing
- Plastic tub or bucket to work in (bathtub works fine)
How to Prepare the Leather
If the footwear is new, it is a good idea to form the leather to the wearer’s feet, soften the upper, and strip the manufacturer’s finish. To form the leather, simply wet the entire boot or shoe with warm water and put them on while still damp. If the entire surface is totally soaked, it will lengthen the process, so a moderate amount of water is sufficient. Wearing the shoes around for an hour or so will do wonders for shaping them to the contours of the foot.
After wetting and walking around, while the material is still wet, remove the shoes and clean with saddle soap per the directions. This will soften the upper and strip the finish. Most shoemakers put a few coats of wax on their product before they arrive at a retailer. Presumably, this finish serves to protect the surface during shipping and make the product more attractive to a potential buyer. Remove that finish during this step to apply your own.
When the shoes or boots are formed, softened, and stripped, allow to dry for a few hours. Placing towels inside will accelerate the drying time.
Time to Apply Wax
Wax shoe polish is the preferred medium to achieve a military quality spit shine. A trip to a large chain store or even a specialty shop reveals numerous other options for dressing leather, but most of the “quick” or “easy” products serve aesthetically and will not protect the surface as well as wax.
Detailed explanations of types of wax are given in Part 2 of this article.
To begin the polishing process, remove the laces and ensure the wax color matches the dye of the leather. Use a small applicator brush to work wax into the surface. Use a circular motion and ensure an even amount is applied across the entire area. Avoid getting chunks of wax into lace eyelets or the weld where the sole meets the upper.
Once a moderate coat of wax is worked onto the surface, use a buffing brush (usually made of soft camel hair) to finely work the excess wax off the boot and even the finish. Repeat the application and buffing process until there is enough wax to protect the leather and the color and shine are consistent throughout. This will produce a decent gloss in itself and may be sufficient to achieve the desired look. For everyday wear this is probably acceptable.
For a “spit-shine,” a lint-free towel is used. Literally, water is used in lieu of actual spit, but the term lives on from days of old. Spit-shining is also discussed in Part 2 of this article.
Avoid These Pitfalls
On the topic of shining leather, oft-repeated rumors abound in military and police circles. Many seem plausible in theory but a simple demonstration will reveal the fallacy of the following shortcuts:
Neutral Polish on Black Leather: Some maintain that using a neutral polish will create a glossy clear coat that enhances the finished shine. This technique may work with varied outcomes at the first try, but over time a splotchy unnatural look will develop.
- Mop’n’Glo: The floor cleaner (and numerous other cleaning products) has been repeated through generations of service members as a quick alternative to laborious polishing. The anecdotal advice recommends something along the lines of rubbing a thin coat of a cleaning product to a boot; this application is said to give an unparalleled shine. If tested, the cleaner will indeed appear to give the leather a glossy finish. The problem with this method is that Mop’n’Glo is ssentially a soap, and the first time the wearer comes in contact with water, their boots become a sudsy mess and dry with a white filmy finish. It isn’t hard to conceive the scenarios that would allow water on shoes (puddle, rain, etc.) so it is best to avoid this method.
- Paint/Varnish: Numerous oral traditions posit that various household paints or stains will give leather a shine. Much like other methods in this list, the finished product may look pleasing at a glance, but in this case, the finish will crack and flake off when worn.
- Heating: Leather is mammalian skin, or at least it was, so it still behaves as such, i.e. the pores open and close based on temperature and moisture conditions. Heating either the polish or the surface is a tricky method as it can produce unintended results. If done properly, however, heating the surface of the boot either directly or by applying heated wax will produce a magnificent shine by allowing the leather’s pores to open. If done improperly, the surface can be dried out, the leather can crack, or a visibly uneven finish can result.
To read about advanced finishing methods in shining, to include how to properly heat leather and bottle shine, read Part 2 of this article.
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